Full crimp climbing. Hangboarding counts as training.

Full crimp climbing Wirklich besser crimpen: Jeder Crimp braucht The rehab protocol I’m following (Climbing Doctor Grade 1 or mild pulley sprain rehab protocol) doesn’t place any emphasis on the full crimp position so I’m wondering if I need to alter my focus more on that grip type since I don’t have pain in any other grips. Aug 26, 2024 · Hangboarding is a prime method for boosting finger strength, allowing you to train various grip types, including full-crimp. rocke An open hand or slope grip position is relatively safe for a healing A2 pulley, in that the force placed on the A2 during active flexion in an open hand position is far less than it is when the finger is in a full crimp position (or even half crimp). Why You Should Train the Full Crimp | Bouldering Cheng is Always Climbing 12. Jan 31, 2022 · It's often said that training full crimped is 'dangerous'. Nov 19, 2025 · Crimps When I first started rock climbing, I thought that holding on to a crimp would be an impossible task. instagram. Dec 12, 2024 · Youth climbers should try not to overuse full-crimp grips because full-crimping forces the DIP joints into terminal extension and increases the compression on the PIP joint, which is a major risk factor for epiphyseal stress fractures. For example, when can a person begin to hangboard? Gravelle says that, “it really depends on the Misjudging climbing hold shapes ruptures A2 pulleys. Climbing places a particularly high load on tissues of the upper extremity. Nov 19, 2025 · A crimp in rock climbing is a type of climbing hold that will only fit your finger pads. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below! 🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS Hydration and Full crimping is a very useful grip, but one that puts a lot of stress on your tendons. Open (aka: drag) Grip The Open Crimip. First, you’ll need to play around with the different hold sizes to see how long you can hold on to May 10, 2022 · However, it may be worth drip-feeding the full-crimp into your training to see if you experience benefits. If the boulder suits me, I can climb 7b within a session. The 10 is redundant, wish it was a 15 or 12. Full crimp - Similar to a half crimp, but the DIP is hyperextended with the help of the thumb pressing down on the distal phalanx. I am generally hypermobile, so in this position, my middle knuckles (PIP joint) are higher than the tips of my fingers. The thumb typically wraps over the index finger to add support. What I've noticed in nearly all cases is that most people have hyperextended dip joints in full crimp and tend to put their thumb on top of index/middle fingers, but my full crimp looks pretty similar to my half, but I put my thumb on the side of my index for stability more than anything and don't hyperextend the dip joints. I had to take a deep breath and May 1, 2024 · The full-crimp is locked into place with your thumb so you should only perform small amounts of sub-maximal load levels on the hangboard. Crimping ain’t easy. Your thumb applies pressure on the top of the hold. Crimping: This is a way of holding on to smaller holds that are too tiny to grip in a standard manner. Sep 4, 2025 · Here, the half crimp and full crimp will typically result in the highest performances. So what's the big problem? Early climbing research has shown that the full crimp Jan 19, 2021 · Whether you are hangboarding, sport climbing, board climbing or bouldering, the way that you grip a hold says a lot about your climbing. In fact, tendon health wise it's even better to not full crimp. With all of the possible finger positions, it can be difficult to discern which is best used when and why an athlete might choose one over another. Crimp holds are small holds that only have enough space for fingertips. When you're pulling hard they are also under a lot of tension, and the function of the pulleys is to hold the tendon close to the bone by exerting a Learning how to incorporate the full crimp into my training for climbing has helped me grow immensely as a climber. Looking to master the different climbing finger grips and techniques rock climbers use to improve their technique? Here are the top7 techniques and injury preventions. Climbers build finger strength through regular practice with these grip types (typically using hangboards or campus boards). I’ve been climbing/training for about 2 years now and I’ve been progressing nicely for someone who started over the age of 30. Always try an open crimp first and focus on your footwork before resorting to a half of full Full Crimp Milk. If you feel a tweaking sensation in your tendons, let go now! 4. The table Mar 5, 2014 · A large percent of climbers that injure their pulleys are over crimping with a full crimp. In crimping, the tips of your fingers curl over the edge of the hold. to/3J6fNdDmore A half crimp is the preferred crimp because it spreads the load more evenly between the tendons and pulleys. Climbing crimps is incredibly stressful on your tendons and ligaments, so you should also take extra precautions to climb injury-free. This creates a larger angle, which allows you to actively pull on the grip when moving through a wider range of motion (see image). This was more apparent in full crimp than half crimp, which is why I avoided full crimp for so long. People often assume that a full crimp is when you place your thumb over your index finger, when that is the closed hand crimp. Meanwhile, bolt-on holds have evolved and are now far more user-friendly and generally suited to the half-crimp than the hideous sharp edges that we used to bone down on. (Photo: Meyers et al. They are characterized by their narrow width and typically have a small edge or lip that climbers can grasp with their fingertips. Don’t do it on rest days! Concentrate. Once you've built up that tendon strength (after years of Mar 12, 2025 · Avoid full crimping at your max until your fingers have strengthened from climbing for a while. Climbing moves to a hold to transfer weight off the arms. Stretching and Flexibility Courses: https://www. Background: been climbing 10 years, always considered half crimp my strongest. Mar 26, 2025 · In climbing, the fingers remain relatively static after grabbing a hold, so it’s best to train finger strength in the most common positions: Full-crimp (second knuckle above the first) Half-crimp (second knuckle even with the first) Open-hand (second knuckle below the first). Excessive full-crimping can strain pulleys. This hangboard routine might be controversial, but when approached correctly it Aug 25, 2019 · Ever since about 2-3 years into climbing, the back side of my middle fingers (on both hands) would get aggravated fairly easily when crimping. 49 likes · 1 talking about this. Why are there so many grip positions? What are they? The Three-Finger Drag This is the grip position defined by Jan 9, 2023 · I think this one stems from the flawed but understandable comparison climbers tend to make between dynamic climbing and sloppy climbing. Oct 23, 2024 · Use good technique One crucial component to improving crimping ability is mastering good technique. I've come to realize that this is more of a full crimp. Sep 27, 2024 · Climbers don’t simply get injured from full crimping; they get injured because they aren’t listening to their bodies. Full Crimp Milk is a lifestyle and climbing brand that aims to deliver affordable climbing products Want to FULL CRIMP w/ Strength & Safety? Read This. These types of holds require strong finger strength and precise technique. This guide covers everything from jug holds to crimps to improve your climbing skills. The slope grip is characterised by a flexion of the finger joints. Open-hand uses three fingers, usually the index, middle, and ring finger. Some grip types are more “active” than others. The big misconception is that dynamic climbing has to be sloppy and therefore must be less efficient and less safe than static climbing. Feb 24, 2023 · While grip position may vary based on your goals, to protect against injury, train the half-crimp/semi-crimp position—without your thumb. This position is often misidentified: climbers often claim they are in a half crimp when they are actually in a full crimp minus the thumb. Climbing frequently at max capacity is more likely to chronically exceed your load tolerance, increasing risk. Crimping and full crimping are essential hand positions techniques used in rock climbing for handling small or narrow holds. skool. There is none of the movement around the holds or out-of-control swinging about on the fingers which you simply cannot avoid while climbing. The three main crimp types. 👇 The Full Crimp is one of the most powerful, and risky, grip positions in climbing. Tread carefully with the full-crimp and do small amounts at sub-maximal load levels on the hangboard and avoid pushing to this grip to failure when bouldering. Athlete and coach Christian Core recommends against training the full crimp position. It helps in multiple hand positions, and developing its strength is vital to our advancement in climbing, but it’s also the second most commonly issued tissue for climbers. Oct 26, 2021 · Minimize use of full-crimp grip (fingers fully bent and thumb over the index fingernail). Hangboarding Exercises (Crimp Climbing 101) A hangboard is an excellent tool for training finger strength. A "Full Crimp" is a grip position where the climber's fingers are sharply bent at the second knuckles, allowing them to hold onto small holds with maximum strength. They also show the A2 will repetitively withstand forces greater than this during recreational climbing, increasing the risk of a pulley injury. Cracks: Fill the space with whatever limb you jam into it, such as hand jams, fist jams, finger locks, foot jams, etc. Illustration of the slope (a), half crimp (b) and full crimp (c) grip techniques used during rock-climbing. Full Crimp and Half Crimp Grips. Often after I fall off a boulder or a route, I realize that I wasn't crimping as I was trying the final move. com/nowyouknow/aboutInstagram: https://www. Feb 7, 2014 · The evidence is in the amount of people that have ruptured their tendons using a closed crimp compared to an open hand. May 15, 2018 · In this video we show the three different ways you can using crimping to exert more pressure on a hold. The plan outlines four pillars, each with strategic initiatives and intended outcomes, to further USA Climbing's mission: USA Climbing supports the well-being, development, Aug 3, 2010 · A full crimp helps gain the necessary distance to the obvious left hold he is aiming for. Focus on essential aspects such as pre-hab exercises, climbing on crimp holds, and applying good technique. The full-crimp is a powerful and aggressive grip position, that allows a climber to lock down on even the smallest of edges. Due to the amount of tension in your finger and hand tendons, crimping is one of the most common climbing hold types that Jan 4, 2024 · In today's Tips & Tricks episode, we are going to look at different types of crimp grips. Mar 1, 2019 · The full crimp grip is one of 6 hand and finger positions used in rock climbing. If you want to get better at full crimping I would start climbing finger intensive boulders, well below your max (so maybe V5/6ish) and consciously full crimp small holds whilst being in control of the moves. Learn all about how to do it and how to avoid crimping injuries. Aug 21, 2024 · The types of climbing holds you’ll find in a gym are inspired by natural features found in rock. Suitable for climbing, weightlifting, gymnastics, and all other activities where you'll need friction! Nov 22, 2021 · Should you train full crimp? Avoid Long-Term Finger Injuries Avoid long-term nagging injuries to the joints, tendons, and muscles in your fingers by using the full crimp grip only when absolutely necessary. , have shaped natural climbing holds for millions of years! If you’re new to climbing, you might get confused when you hear somebody talk about a sloper or a jug. Here are the key types of crimping grips, their differences and some tips and exercises to increase your finger strength. Crimp climbing, also known as crimping, is a climbing grip where your fingertips are the only thing that touches a crimp climbing hold. I always just considered the thumb wrap to be full crimp Hang data for 20mm ~7-10 sec: -my fuller "half crimp": ~45lbs -3 finger drag Cleaner, and smells better! Try our liquid chalk to feel the difference. A full crimp puts the greatest amount of force through the A2 pulley. Sep 26, 2025 · USA Climbing Unveils 2025-2028 Strategic Plan September 30, 2025 USA Climbing is excited to announce its 2025-2028 Strategic Plan. Jul 17, 2025 · 34 likes, 17 comments - full_crimp on July 17, 2025: "First black tag (V9+) and might as well get 2 in one day day-flashing🤯 who knew not spamming climbing days and getting more rested will make you climb better I would be lying if I said I like climbing all the time, past few weeks I haven’t been feeling really motivated lately and only climbing once a week and this usually happens every In this weeks video, @ShaunaCoxseyClimber and Hannah Morris talk all things finger strength and crimp technique on at the newly opened @theclimbinghangaruk i Apr 5, 2009 · Abstract In sport climbing, and particularly in rock climbing, the so-called crimp grip position is the finger position most often used to enable the athlete to hold the smallest ledges. It allows you to: pull harder on smaller holds, pull your hips into the wall, bend your wrist so you can move past your hand, and sometimes is just simply the most comfortable way to grab a hold (especially outside). I’m curious how people feel about the full crimp. It generates more torque by improving joint alignment and passive tension, but also increases shear force on the A2 (and A3) pulley, compressive stress on the DIP joint, and strain on collateral ligaments and the volar May 2, 2018 · The open-hand grip. In a full crimp, you also use your thumb, but this position puts a high amount of stress on the annular ligaments. This is why most climbers use either a half crimp or full crimp when climbing. This commonly leads to strain and damage. It is important to vary the intensity of climbing sessions and incorporate periods of rest and recovery within your climbing schedule1. All three are important in climbing, and if you want to be a good climber, you shouldn't neglect any of them. So, simply put, a crimp grip is the way your hand is positioned and how your fingers are bent when using a tiny hold. Bei einigen Boulderer:innen trifft das sogar zu, für andere steigt das Verletzungsrisiko aber deutlich. 7K subscribers Full crimping in the gym is no more or less dangerous than full crimping outside. There are three different crimp grips, the open hand grip, half crimp and full crimp grip. Crack climbing is an entire discipline that requires a specific Mar 1, 2025 · The basic grips include full crimp, pinch, sloper, crimp, pocket, undercling, sidepull, and gaston – each serving specific purposes on the wall. Over-reliance on a full crimp grip by newer climbers, progressing climbing intensity too quickly or climbers who are climbing at a higher level where frequent full crimp gripping is required, all have the potential for developing this injury. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. While effective for securing holds, this grip can put significant stress on the tendons and joints of the fingers, making it riskier for injuries if not used carefully. So what is it? The FDP is a muscle that originates on the ulna and interosseous membrane, unlike many of the other flexors that originate at the medial A half crimp position is simply a crimp with the palm flat or “open”. Full crimping is a major cause of finger injuries in climbing. (For a global reference of strength I’ll say my max grade on 2016 moonboard is V7 and can briefly hang from 6 mil edges in half crimp). Running water, wind erosion, rock fall, etc. hold causing the knee to go into flexion. The full crimp puts more stress on the A2 and A4 pulleys than other grips. Over training and climbing/campussing with bad technique will strain the pulleys over time. Sep 11, 2023 · Crimps und Leisten auf einen Blick Wer stellt, der hält: Wenn du deine Finger beim Crimpen aufstellst, lässt du den Griff nicht mehr los – das impliziert zumindest dieser Spruch. [Guide] Feb 1, 2001 · The measurements were done in the crimp grip position each time after 20 climbing moves, while the device was placed newly before every measurement to make sure it is in the correct position. Reply reply Namelessontrail • Im asking because I dont hyperextend in my full crimp, and I just realized it may affect the angle of my wrist and therefore impact how I am able to move on a hold. The entire hand’s muscle machinery is employed to grab on to a hold. Related: Injury Prevention Quick Tip—Preventing and Strengthening Against Shoulder Impingement Recommended Exercise: Child’s Pose Finger Lifts Perform this exercise to improve motor coordination and strengthen the individual finger extensors in a weight-bearing position. The full crimp does put a lot of strain on your fingers since they're being hyper-extended in a pretty unique way. For reference, at my best, I could one-arm hang the outer beast maker 2000 14mm edge and can one-arm hang 15mm on the tension board on a good day, as well as one-arm hang the lattice edge for ~5sec Apr 24, 2023 · So how do we choose between them? Fingerboards are the most specific to climbing positions, and are the preferred starting point if no other factors need to be considered. Stronger fingers = better crimping, right?! This is an oversimplification and we see many examples which seem to disprove the idea that finger strength must equal improved performance on rock! In Jul 9, 2020 · If you want to get started as a rock climber, there are six types of rock climbing grips you need to learn. I rest about 2-3 minutes and get on the hangboard (lattice or beastmaker), and if my fingers are feeling iffy or a little over-used, I tend toward a larger edge (about 25-30mm). Apr 22, 2024 · The full and closed crimp hand positions place the greatest force on the A2 pulley, with forces 3 to 4 times greater than at the fingertips. Would it be smart to use something like a tension block to start training the full crimp position starting at a very low Dec 17, 2021 · That said, full crimp is trainable, though exceptionally dangerous. I'm thinking in my board climbing sessions to be mindful of not full crimping on sub maximal climbs, don't crimp the pinches and slopers, etc. When I first started rock climbing, everything seemed so intimidating. If you're just starting out then yes, you should focus on climbing open handed as much as possible since the connective tissues in your fingers aren't yet strong enough to handle the added stress of harder crimping. The reason is mechanical: The finger tendons run from your forearm muscles to the ends of your fingers, navigating through the various bends of your wrist and fingers. Deswegen gilt eher: wer [die Füße richtig] stellt, der hält. That being said, one of the most prolific climbing coaches and training experts (and of course a very hard climber himself), Eric Hörst, advocates for training all types of hand positions, including the full crimp. The difference between a half crimp and full crimp is our thumb positioning. But, in my opinion, it's really important to train the full crimp grip position because a lot of hard moves on rock revolve around Use an unloading technique such as H-taping (as illustrated below) during a crimp position and during active range of motion exercises, strength training, and climbing; the tendon approximates close to the bone, which is giving the pulley the ability to heal. Get My eBook: The Crux ( My personal memoir on climbing ): https://thecrux. Does hyperextension make your wrist flex a bit more, which Check out our full crimp climbing tshirt selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our crimp beads shops. Hangboarding counts as training. This is exactly why people perform the closed/full crimp position, increased strength. It involves climbers wrapping the thumb over the index fingers and curling the fingers into a smaller joint angle. ) Mar 27, 2019 · The answer is that many people (myself included) got injured once too often from full-crimping and re-trained themselves to rely more on the half-crimp. ” This principle says that isometric strength is gained only in a small range outside the angle in which it was trained. Understanding the three grip positions: open-hand, half-crimp, and full-crimp, is key to your climbing success. This is probably the most difficult position for people who are very strong full crimpers to achieve. Crimps are small climbing holds and there are a few different types of crimp grip: open crimp, half crimp, and full crimp. Jul 26, 2021 · ANATOMY The FDP is the most important finger flexor we have. Jan 31, 2022 · Fortunately, training the full crimp in total control on a fingerboard is relatively safe – although it is not 100 per cent risk free. A weird result, I can climb crimpy Dec 21, 2022 · Instead, this program focuses on three positions—open hand, half crimp, and full crimp—because they are the most common used in real climbing, and they address the principle of “joint angle specificity. There are three basic types: the open crimp, the full crimp, and the three-finger grip. The second joints of your fingers are mostly at a 90-degree angle Jul 2, 2019 · Helping my friend brian with his project which involves a lot of crimp holds. Welcome back to Technique Tuesday! In this episode, we’re breaking down one of the most important — and risky — hold types in climbing: crimps. com/chengisalwaysclimbing/Business Inquires-https: Jul 13, 2021 · Then here’s all you need to know about crimping in climbing! A crimp can mean two different things in rock climbing: it’ll either mean a small edge or hand-hold, or mean the way you grab onto such a hold and the hand position (the crimp grip) you’re using to do so. Perfect for flakes and small edges, the full crimp grip is when you grab with most of the pressure on the middle finger joints (with the thumb wrapped around the index finger for extra power). Full Crimp Grip Position: In the full crimp, the fingers are bent sharply, with the first knuckle at a 90-degree angle. Going to the gym by myself and being surrounded by incredible climbers left and right. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. May 7, 2024 · When we talk about 'active positions' in climbing, we're referring to grips like the half and full crimp. The half crimp grip. We analyze 5 types—why "Full Crimps" break tendons & how to fix Sloper slips. Half crimp - The PIP is flexed to 90 degrees and DIP in full extension. They involve the following: 1. Full crimping has felt very secure for me when I am just holding it or doing simple movement but anything else feels less secure than half crimp and I tend not to use it. The most open position—often referred to as a “drag”—is extremely useful for resting on large positive holds where the high contact surface with the hold allows for frictional assistance. The half crimp is I then proceed to do dynamic finger curls (from a full open hand to a near full crimp, without the thumb) for a total of 5 sets of 10 reps per hand. If you're seeing steady progress in your climbing ability there is no need to change to full crimping just for the sake of it. In my experience it happens more often outdoors, that I have to full crimp. These types of climbing holds are usually on more advanced climbs. We imagine cutting feet on every move, ugly jerky movement, and generally forgoing technique in favor of dynoing. Feb 9, 2020 · Now, it’s important to know that without the change in the angle (full crimp) but with the thumb over index finger (closed hand crimp) there is a 17% increase in grip strength while not significantly increasing the risk of injury (Quaine). Block Pulls offer variety and some specific advantages They allow you to train your grip with reduced stress on the typically associated musculature (shoulders, elbows, etc) The crimp applies a lot more force to the hold, you can keep your hips much further into the wall and get far better extension and control in your reach to the next hold. Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. It also helps resist the "barn-door" effect that this move produces as the climber's center of gravity shifts to the left. Armed with the knowledge of how to hold crimps, practice, and finger-strength exercises, you'll be Crimping Crimping is a technique climbers and boulderers use to grip small holds. Nov 6, 2024 · High-intensity isometric hangs on small edges can improve the rate of force development, which is crucial for climbing without requiring full crimp positions. What to know Break-down complete, we can begin to understand finger strength as a concept. Warm up Is your eventual goal to full crimp or climb harder? Half/open crimping is sufficient as long as your overall finger strength is improving. Other than that it’s practically perfect. Photo: Beast Fingers Climbing Step 2: Find Your Max Now we’ll find your starting point using the Rate of Perceived Effort (RPE) Scale, with 1-RPE being the easiest and 10-RPE being the hardest. The proxim The 8 and 6 are great, especially for full crimping and getting used to smaller edges. It is advisable to start with developed tendons and pulleys before intensifying full crimp workouts. . Train it in smaller doses and at lower load levels than other grips. Closed crimps are preferred over full crimps. Learn the 3 main types of crimp grips — open Oct 15, 2021 · In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an open hand grip. Not after this! Understanding the types of climbing holds and how to use them will I've been climbing for ~6 years (V10 indoors; V9 outdoors), and I have had a huge discrepancy between my half crimp and closed crimp to the point that my closed crimp is virtually non-existent. You will encounter it in your climbing journey and it makes sense to get used to it. Short-duration, high-intensity protocols can yield measurable performance gains within a month, highlighting their practical value for in-season or preparatory training phases. Full Crimp In full crimp, the length of your fingers on the hold forms a full bend in relation to the tips of your fingers resting on the edge of the hold. 5,7 Studies show that our A2 pulley can withstand approximately 100 lbs of force at a given time. Or would you do dedicated hangboard sessions in half crimp? Discover the different rock climbing grips. Dec 16, 2022 · Want to know the rules and precautions for using climbing crimp? Read the article Rock Climbing Crimp: Best Review & Helpful Recommendations Crimp holds are small, sharp holds that require a lot of finger strength to grip onto. A true game changer on small crimps. The half crimp is Hallo, I'm now climbing for about 6yrs, mostly bouldering indoors and also a lot outdoors. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. Sustained crimping can and will damage not only your fingers but also your climbing career. You'll have to full crimp sometimes, and it becomes more likely to cause injury if its the ONLY thing you do. If you are a beginner, be sure to check out the video for the very basic tips for climbing crimps! My Climbing/Workout Gear: https://amzn. (Photo: Neil Gresham) Oct 29, 2020 · The reality is, the full crimp &/or closed crimp is a valuable part of a climbers toolbox. I noticed, that I'm basically full crimping everything and as soon as there are pinches, or holds, where it's beneficial to pinch with your thumb, I'm feeling quite weak and mostly decide to full crimp them too. The full crimp grip. aakig yflvxhc owvczn hxkt erdc umhao nvzhws akmlppjsi uyupgz jpagugin pkkhsjde rurvu inny ltupra qgar