Comp climbing reddit Hey all, just picked up a pair of mad rock drone cs and thought I’d share my initial impressions after my first session. Looking at that thread what stands out is all the unmarked spoilers. Stefano Ghisolfi, even Alex Megos to an extent for the men, Laura Rogora for the women (she's even shorter than Ai Mori though, and also really doesn't like dynos) Reply reply The Drone's are the first climbing shoe in which my heel was not a literal whoopie cushion. r/CompetitionClimbing is a subreddit with 36k members. I've been trying to figure out what the differences actually are between competition and traditional style. As far as difference between outdoor and competition climbing - lots of people are top of the world outdoors but don't replicate those results on the comp wall. But I have the total opposite opinion. I'm curious to watch the comp and see if it was enforced elsewhere. The specific workouts are part of general climbing training, there's a lot of stuff to read, but most people mostly do limit climbing (limit bouldering or sport projecting), some hangboarding, and extra core workouts. You say projecting together, projecting what? Janja is clearly the best female competition climber, what more needs to be said? I only got into competition climbing in the past year or so. I would recommend letting your feet rest between climbs, taking off your shoes, making sure your shoes don’t have any air pockets and have someone review your foot placement techniques. A comprehensive subreddit for all things competitive climbing. Its distinguishing qualities are that the community is large in size. The Comp is a lot less stiff, but pretty narrow and designed for competition climbing or very steep terrain, and the Drago is super soft and mostly designed for comp climbing as well. The permanent comp wall in my local centre is numbered from 1-30. Feedback on that is welcome. The crowds look A LOT bigger in Europe! We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Unless you are climbing 40 hours a week. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Competition Climbing: Calendar, Comp Threads, Replays, etc. 233 votes, 390 comments. 🥇… I made a couple charts showing the climbing shoes worn by every IFSC World Cup bouldering and lead finalist. I do a lot of comp climbing at the local level, and have a tendency to beat climbers that are much stronger than me simply because I'm more experienced than they are. 13 votes, 18 comments. I… This is the smaller rock climbing community on reddit. What matters most in competition climbing? I'm about to start competing with my unis team this fall, and watching the Olympics and other comps and talking to some friends has got me wondering. meaning that all those incredible achievements are made whilst traveling around the world at competitions This visualization shows the results of the climbing competition of the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo and compares the actual final rank of athletes with the rank they would have obtained using the current scoring calculations for climbing (which will be used at the 2024 Olympics in Paris). 1. The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. She has climbed harder problems than most of the male athletes and seems to only go harder year after year. In terms of physical movement, comps are constantly testing tons of different things, and there a plenty of boulders in comps (yes, including World Cups) that don't look like what people think of when they say "comp style". I use them mostly for indoor bouldering but they are amazing on indoor sport climbing and outdoor bouldering as well. The pressure of having to execute and compete in a 38 votes, 65 comments. You can compete against your friends there to see who can hit the highest number. And if comp climbing can get you there, then by all means start getting into it. And beyond that, she isn't even focused on sportsclimbing. I just started climbing last month and also watched comp climbing for the first time this past weekend. Instructions on how to spoiler tag things and stricter rules on posting them in the hub thread would be nice. I'm starting to shift to sport climbing mainly for comps. Have you bought it and what level are you and is it worth it out of 10/10 We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Unpopular opinion, if you are still learning techniques and climbing lower grades, get a cheaper pair (La sportiva Finale, or something) to climb on V2s and practice V5s and wear your solution comp when you are ready to send it. The only thing that makes something "comp style" is a timer and a scoring system that compares you against other people. EDIT: I settled on La Sportiva Theory shoes after trying on and climbing in about 6 different shoes (Drago, Furia Air, Solution, Solution Comp and Theory all in various sizes) Secondly, I do experience climbing as a cooperative sport and believe that it doesn't work without that cooperation. A comprehensive subreddit for all things comp climbing. No sponsor will judge your climbing based on your performance on local gym routes, because they mean nothing. the best A comprehensive subreddit for all things competitive climbing. We've been traveling around for comps the last few years and it's awesome to experience new facilities, routes, and communities. At which grade did you start to plateau? When did you start seriously training? I’m climbing up to V4 level at the moment. And yes we are scared of falling. ) I assume he's focusing on his big outdoor projects, but I'm still surprised - just last year, he was at multiple comps and now with a realistic shot at the Olympics (male Team Italy doesn't have two strong contenders imo) he's given comp climbing up? Janja Garnbret (most dominant competitor in the most stacked era of comp climbing ever) Tomoa Narasaki (most consistent male competitor over the last bunch of years, also flashed v14) This question is better suited for r/climbharder or plain old r/climbing I think. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. First a little background about my competition history: I've been climbing for 6 years now, and competing for 5, not very long compared to many, but long enough to have seen and competed in a fair share of local competitions. I was reading Janja Garbret's Wikipedia page, and honestly came to question why climbing competitions separate the genders. 1K subscribers in the CompetitionClimbing community. In Conclusion Competition climbing is still fundamentally climbing, and its inclusion as an olympic sport benefits almost every practitioner of the sport in some form regardless of one's chosen discipline. Every comp (even nationals) that I went to let you choose if you wanted to compete in the beginner, intermediate, or advanced categories for the red tape portion of the comp. I’m excited for Paraclimbing finals tonight but it’s a shame to see that the ifsc disqualified an RP3 woman for ‘climbing too well’ after agreeing her classification before the weekend. And get rid of that "my gym grades hard" mentality, because no one cares about the hardness or softness of gym climbs. It's also worth looking for local gym competitions that you can join, especially those that are based on in-network 30 votes, 17 comments. Most climbing comps have different level for people of different skills, and if you don’t feel comfortable competing right away, the competition climbs at the climbing gym that is hosting are left up for the public after the comp is over (in my experience at least. A lot of casual comps have an open round (everybody climbs like a normal session, but tracking how many attempts to finish the comp boulders you try) and then finals with a handful of climbers from each sex, where each person tries the/each boulder separately for a certain amount of time. Climbing is inherently individual and diverse enough to cater to almost everyone in accordance with one's desired experience from the sport. A comprehensive subreddit for all things competitive climbing. If anything, I find comp climbing (and training for it) excellent for helping me identify my lingering deficiencies and burgeoning advances. r/CompetitionClimbing: A comprehensive subreddit for all things competitive climbing. I'm surprised your Cobras weren't comfortable new, seeing as they're unlined suede, which stretches a lot. Does anyone know how much it is for each place? Does it vary from… Altitude's Adam Ondra's climbing course. What atributes in a climber really matter in comps? Competition Climbing Training Thread I’d like to use this post as a place for less experienced or just interested non-comp climbers to ask more experienced climbers about the art of competition climbing. I can generally tell which of the two styles I'm climbing or have just climbed, but I really want to know how to articulate the distinction wow! I am impressed that you know this much about the japan comp climbing scene Reply reply More replies Affectionate_Fox9001 • 5. Favourite/memorable historic comps? Having not really watched climbing competitions before, I've recently blitzed through the YouTube replays of 2023 IFSC events, and thought it would be good to get some recommendations as I go further back and for anyone else looking to watch a good comp but not knowing where to start. During my recent self-assessment, I found myself walking up most straight-forward crimp/pinch hauls, but failed often on these comp-style We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. This feedback is just for the hub, as the finals thread is marked for spoilers. Board climbing makes you stronger, but you really need to work on slab and movement to match. The softer rubber on the Comps might wear down faster if you're doing a lot of outdoor climbing so be aware of that. Reply Every competition/gym might have a different format. I find La Sportiva to be pretty consistent with their sizing across models. The regular Solutions are good if you're trying to do outdoor climbing. 174K subscribers in the climbharder community. Comp climbing is extremely mental. Featuring the best competition sport climbing highlights and condensed full comps (just the climby bits). 9K subscribers in the CompetitionClimbing community. On the one hand, I do appreciate this being an actual new shoe and not just a different limited edition colorway of Solutions. After seeing past Climbing Japan Cup results, I learned a lot of cool facts today: Akiyo dominated bouldering for basically a decade. I’ve been researching online and la Sportiva solution comp shoes seem to be really popular- but everyone strongly advises against them for being uncomfortable and expensive ( for a beginner. ) Also, when you do compete, don’t overthink it. All bouldering competitions dot not necessarily work the same way, especially local ones but here is how the world cup works: it is based on 3 rounds: qualifications (5 problems), semi-finals (4 problems) and finals (4 problems) for each competitor and problem, and during the allocated time, the number of attempts are recorded, as well as topping it up and getting the bonus hold. But that's not the best way to judge fit. The Solution Comp isn't really all that much softer than the Solution, which makes sense considering they're identical in the forefoot. Has anyone ever been to a live comp? I went to SLC the last couple years and had a lot of fun despite the massive storm during this year’s finals. Mar 24, 2023 · The Drone Comp Series (CS) is an aggressive asymmetrical bouldering shoe—a soft version of the OG Drone—that excels in steeps and on volumes. I was able to find every shoe except for Paul Jenft's. Climb some hard shit outside or win a big comp if you want to become pro. This sub here is about watching professional comp climbing (although most people here also climb). Some people from my college placed in beginner climbing like v2-3, I placed in intermediate climbing v5-6, and a couple buddies placed in advanced climbing v8-9. r/ClimbingvidsFilming with a drone at one of the best beginner crags in Washington! We ran into a few logistical hurdles with the drone, but the shots turned out pretty cool! Let me know if you have tips for filming climbs with the drone. Check /r/climbing for more content. From May 3-5, beautiful Salt Lake City, Utah plays host to bouldering and speed World Cups, followed by a paraclimbing WC on the 7th and 8th. I guess thats what the comp series is for though! We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. e. Closest to outside sport climbing rather than North Mass which is comp-style bouldering. Kokoro has the best bouldering record at 4 wins. They are amazing outdoor shoes and I think they stick even better to rock than plastic, but they are still really nice and sticky for indoor climbing. 1K votes, 117 comments. To say “Bpump only exists to give climbers a place to work” is such hyperbolic nonsense, it’s so typical of Reddit disinformation. We want to build a space where regular, average joes can take part. Competition Threads will be posted prior to live-streamed comps for information and discussion. Things like tactics and strategy are extremely important when it comes to competing. Chat Channel and [post-comp thread] There's now 1 single chat channel that we're gonna try and use for all the IFSC World Cups. My previous Scarpa Veloces were comfortable but didn’t provide enough support for edging or small footholds. About: A subreddit dedicated to competition climbing with competition threads, live streams, highlights and discussion. 2. Sport and top rope though, I really enjoy the 176 votes, 86 comments. A lot of people like Movement because its facilities and holds are all new / solid, but I think setting is what counts. Partly for a fun change, and partly because I realized my bouldering goals just do not line up with comps. Bpump exists because there was a space in the market for a large, high-level bouldering gym and the founders wanted to fill that space in order to make a profit. 0's especially for outdoor climbing, my only issue is that they are a bit stiff. From July 7th through 9th, the lead and speed athletes' tour of the Alps continues in Chamonix, France where they will climb at the foot of the famous Mont Blanc. See the stickied calendar for upcoming comps. If every climber only went bouldering alone or had themselves belayed by someone they didn't perceive as competition, progress in technique, skill, and strength would be much slower. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. For more details: Why are we doing this? Competition Climbing is predominantly either youth or elite focused. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Movement training and climbing 3D volume boulders is important for comp climbing. Apr 6, 2025 · A subreddit dedicated to competition climbing with competition threads, live streams, highlights and discussion. The Solutions should be reasonably comfortable new. Allez les Bleus! Share your full thoughts on the 2023 World Championship Men's Boulder Final. Anyway, work hard, strain smart, and give it several more years. Some shoes are more comfortable out of the box than others. However, outdoor Solution Comp performs better in sticking to almost anything. If you really like competition-style boulders, choose the Movement gyms (Lincoln Park, Wrigleyville), but their setting is highly variable there (sometimes good sometimes quite bad), so I maintain the FA recommendation. r/ CompetitionClimbing2 Join If both Climber A and Climber B flash all 4 problems in a competition final, but Climber B skipped the zone in one problem, which climber is ranked higher? Are they both 4T4z, or is Climber B 4T3z? (i. With the rise of competition climbing, I've noticed an increase in big feature-y holds (like these blue or purple ones). Reddit's rock climbing training community. Women’s boulder is up next. Properly sized Im curious what everyone’s climbing progression/timeline has been like? How quickly did you progress from V1 to V2, and then V2 to V3 etc (not limited to bouldering grades). I've been climbing for more than 20 years and they are some of the best shoes I've had at that size. Along with these holds comes a very gymnastic-sy style of climbing involving dynos, ridiculous footwork, and lots of power endurance. Ai Mori has been winning the lead event since 2016 when she was 13!!!!! This is irrelevant to becoming pro. It's also set for competitions such as Blokfest whenever it comes around. I live downtown and drive to Climb Time instead of North mass because I like the route setting a lot better and the people are more constructive. I don't really enjoy the training for a bouldering comp compared to working a single move on a project for 10 sessions. Both the commentators do an excellent job explaining things and have pretty good chemistry working together. The home of Climbing on reddit. things seem a little different this past year after Brooke started using bolt holes as "holds/crimps". From the ball of the foot backwards the SolComp flexes more easily, but as long as you have the foot strength, power at the tip of the toe is pretty much identical. There's no such thing a "overall" climbing, nor is there a reasonable way to know, let alone average out, how a particular climber would do in all sorts of scenarios they've yet to try. My buddy can pull V10 but good luck getting him up trickky slow slabs. I wear the same size in several models. Would someone explain to me how climbing comps work? From watching a lot of comp highlight videos, it seems like there are multiple ways of running a competition. . Dedicated to increasing all our… Solution comp is the best all rounded bouldering shoes in my mind, while the theory is excellent for slab smearing. 6. It should also be mentioned that of the four climbers you mentioned, both Ondra and Hayes grew up competition climbing in the beginning of the comp-style you mention, and Sharma and Hill also participated in world cups. On the other hand, these are gonna become the new solutions equivalent for indoor climbing, right? I've always been predominantly a boulderer, especially for comps. I love the 2. You'll probably get more advice there. Couldn’t quite read the oversized checks at the Brixen comp. Could someone help me understand them, please? ELI5: Why do people still call Adam Ondra "the best climber" if Janja keeps winning almost every comp and also crushes outdoors? Solution Comp are better for edging and precision, Skwama are softer and better for smearing (mainly in indoor volumes), being for me the best for all-around, it is very rare for me to find and edge indoor I can't stand with me Skwama. cxai xokbu wyd mnuid pljbk ysrhb mapi mecve pypjm zpaaa btsmw baggc mskx ytmja vdh