Best carabiner for belaying. , the Petzl attaché has a pear .

Best carabiner for belaying Here's why using one as your main belay carabiner is a good choice. With toprope belaying, the part of the rope that goes up to the anchor is the climber’s end. It ties quickly on a carabiner, offering simple and effective friction control for descents and load handling. Nov 17, 2016 · The best locking carabiner for you depends on what you will be using it for, from belaying to hauling gear. Their size allows them to handle multiple ropes or knots, which is essential for certain climbing techniques. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Whether for belaying, quickdraw setups, or gear racking, each type and design offers unique benefits. Picking the right climbing gloves can be a challenge, depending on Aug 21, 2018 · The Mammut Smart 2. The additional space within the carabiner allows for easier Ocun Condor HMS and Blackdiamond Gridlock are two available option in my local store. This article lists five of the top carabiner for Grigri that anyone can use today. For more of our top climbing gear recommendations, check out the Best Carabiners. Here are our in-depth reviews! Independent locking carabiner reviews by real outdoors people. Here are our in-depth reviews. Munter Hitch The Munter Hitch provides a method for belaying and rappelling without a belay/rappel device. Lost your belay device before a rappel? Do you know how to rappel with just your carabiners? Learn about the carabiner brake and munter hitch methods here. Their design also accommodates a Munter hitch, offering versatility in belaying techniques. Sep 14, 2020 · Pair with the Gridlock Magnetron carabiner for the perfect belay pair. Nov 21, 2013 · Update: Edelrid made this belay device with their own carabiners in mind. Jan 30, 2025 · These carabiners are great for belaying and rappelling, making them a favorite among climbers who need versatility in their gear. Oct 5, 2025 · Unlike a lightweight quickdraw carabiner built for speed, a belay carabiner is defined by its security, size, and strength. There are different types of belay devices and the belay technique may be slightly different for each one. Oct 25, 2023 · Some people have noted for example that the Edelrid Bulletproof carabiner can impair the locking feature of the Giga Jul, and that the GriGri is susceptible to crossloading using HMS carabiners. Nov 16, 2016 · The Wild Country Ascent Lite Belay is one of two belay specific locking carabiners that we chose to review. Check out our top picks for durable and reliable carabiners that provide a strong and safe anchor point for all your adventures. And the DMM Ceros gets my vote for the best locking carabiner to use with a GriGri. If you are looking for a locking With this carabiner, you get the distinctive Rhino feature, the horn at the top of the carabiner, which prevents your autolocking belay devices from moving about. Each pick emphasizes clip ease, device compatibility, and durability in alpine, sport, and Nov 3, 2020 · We've brought you all the best belay device reviews out there, so just sit back & enjoy. This device is rated for use with 8. It could be that your gym requires you to have a locking carabiner to attach yourself to the gym's belay stations or climbing ropes. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Genuinely curious, what carabiner is it? I bought a 40$ one for belaying and struggle to find anything more expensive than that Nov 2, 2023 · Carabiners for Belaying The standard for belaying these days is a brake assisted belay device (required in many gyms). 95 at REI Oct 14, 2025 · Now, we apply that knowledge to recommend specific lockable carabiners that excel in the most common climbing applications, selected based on their performance, safety features, and user-proven reliability. Instead, the rotation of the device against your carabiner is what creates the pinch. In this comprehensive guide, we delve into the top carabiners specifically designed for belaying to help you make an informed decision. Asymmetrical D: Combines strength with a larger gate opening. 7 to 10. Nov 16, 2025 · Discover the best carabiners with our expert reviews of 12 UIAA certified models. Finally getting involved in a great subreddit, many thanks to those that contribute here, it’s proved useful many times! My question: Does anyone here have any recommendations for a good quality carabiner for carrying additional items on the outside of my rucksack, when travelling. ” Guide mode is a phrase that describes belaying from the top of the pitch. Choosing the wrong one can compromise your safety system. have you tried a more round and skinier carabiner for belaying the follower? At least with a 9mm rope I never had any issues Reply reply More replies Northwest-by-Midwest • Reply reply unkindlyraven • Discover how to choose a carabiner with Crate Club—your ultimate source for premium tactical, survival, and self-defense gear. Aug 15, 2019 · The Mad Rock Gemini is a locking carabiner designed specifically for belaying that actually has two gates. Sep 28, 2025 · The best heavy-duty carabiner for rock climbing prioritizes safety and function. Moreover, you could have a look at the DMM Belay Master 2, this is one kind of carabiners which is considered a "safebiner", and you are less likely to find a more secure biner for belaying than this one. See examples of best, good, ok, and bad when it comes to locking 'biners. Sep 27, 2025 · Confused what carabiner for climbing? Get the ultimate guide on choosing the right locking, non-locking, & HMS carabiners for belaying & anchors. It features a small wire gate that keeps the carabiner from rotating around on the belay loop when in use. Looking to invest in a lightweight, yet strong and safe carabiner for your next belaying or outdoor climbing experience. The Munter Hitch is used to manage rope friction for belaying or rappelling in climbing and rescue. Securing HMS Carabiner HMS Carabiner When belaying it is important to use a carabiner with a generous top beam. Belaying with an ATC involves knowing how to: Set up the ATC belay device Belay … Mar 17, 2022 · When it comes to belaying, all carabiners are created equal as long as they’re correctly clipped to your harness and belay device… right? Well, actually, no. Within this buying guide, we present in-depth reviews and comparative analyses of the best carabiners for backpacks currently available. Locking carabiners are among the first items of equipment that climbers purchase. The belay/rappel system’s carabiner is frequently used on its own, with no possibility for redundancy. Belay and rappel gloves help keep your hands clean and in control of the rope, while crack gloves are designed to protect the backs of your hands when you’re jamming them in cracks. An HMS carabiner is ideal, but it's important to remember that screw gates must be locked manually every time. Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. But why? We’ll discuss each of the 5 (+1) carabiner shapes in order from most available and popular to the least including best uses along with pros and cons. D-shaped carabiner still works fine, but the operation varies with the way the rope sits. It’s a compact, pear-shaped design and wide rope-bearing surface for smooth belays and reduced wear. Carefully considering factors such as gate type, shape, strength, weight, and size will help you with making your decision. Preferably with a threaded / locking clasp. Feb 28, 2018 · For clipping anchors and chains, the best locking carabiner will be a thin offset-D. My old harness also had a very wide belay loop, which made the GridLock sit very awkwardly on it, since the bottom of the biner was narrower than the harness. I use one with my grigri, because that tends to cross load the carabiner more, but its a bit more hassle to take on and off your harness, which you will be doing a lot with a tube device. 0 is a “ passive ” assisted belay device. We cover the options to help find the right one for you. Tie the Munter hitch on a large locking carabiner to allow the knot to swivel, as it must when you are paying out and reeling in slack. The Pure carabiner is the best carabiner to lever the device. It combines proven reliability, lightweight aluminum construction, and keylock nose design at an excellent value point. Choose a model that balances strength with manageable weight Nov 5, 2025 · The best locking carabiner is the Black Diamond HotForge Screwgate 3-Pack for most climbers. This wire gate works well at its intended task, and for the most part prevents belay devices from loading the carabiner in its weak orientation. You’ll Which carabiner is best for belaying? Choose a large HMS locking carabiner with a smooth, wide top bar for easy rope handling. Before reading on, check out the Evening Sends Guide to Choosing a Belay Device. The belay carabiner needs to fit in the grove of the belay device (see photo below). Oct 12, 2023 · We could have made this blogpost one sentence: The majority of your non-locking carabiners will be Offset D shaped, while your locking carabiners will likely be Pear/HMS shaped for belaying and/or making anchor power points. Most climbers develop preferences after just a few seasons of climbing. Learn the basics of top rope belaying, including gear, setup, safety checks and procedures, plus the PBUS method and how to lower a climber. This article covers how to belay with an ATC. Sep 28, 2018 · Locking carabiners are an integral part of the climbers kit. Also how does the shape of the carabiner affect things and which orientation should it have? I. Jul 17, 2025 · Belaying with a Grigri device requires a reliable carabiner that combines locking security with smooth clipping. Check out our 8 top picks and some helpful tips Dec 2, 2024 · If you're looking for the best carabiner for belaying, you've come to the right place. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Aug 8, 2025 · Discover our picks for best climbing carabiners, with options for a range of uses. It has a metal spur that splits off the outside of the spine into a hook Aug 31, 2021 · We field tested 12 of the best locking carabiners in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Alternative Assisted Braking Belay Device For Beginners Beal Birdie $74. The Strike carabiner is best for belaying. The main reason to use a special carabiner for your belay device is to avoid cross-loading. Thanks in anticipation! Mar 29, 2013 · It’s been my experience that ‘biners specifically designed to prevent cross loading provide, at the very least, peace of mind. I quickly searched for those and realised that Blackdiamond has an old and a new version for this specific carabiner. See our guide to the best climbing belay devices of 2025, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. Nite Ize LSB3-01-R6 S-Biner SlideLock Dual Locking Carabiner, Size #3, Stainless https://a. With a multitude of options available, finding the ideal carabiner for belaying can be a daunting task. As such, the Edelrid Strike FG isn’t a great buy. Feb 22, 2024 · What's better, screw or auto-locking carabiners? This post dives into when and where to use each style of locking carabiner. Hi - If I missed this in the FAQ I apologize but don't remember seeing anything specifically on this. And one that isn’t the size of my face. Jan 7, 2025 · Stay safe and secure with the best screw lock carabiners. Auto-locking options (such as twistlock gates) are great for extra security, but screwgate HMS models remain the most popular choice. E. What ‘da heck is that, you might be saying? If you don't speak German, that’s an excellent question. Due to its design, this isn’t possible on Edelrid’s top of the line belay crab, the Strike FG. While technically any locking carabiner that is rated for climbing could be used to safely belay, there are ‘biners specifically designed for belaying that offer a few important safety measures and ergonomic design features that May 16, 2025 · This article aims to provide a comprehensive analysis of the factors that contribute to carabiner performance and suitability, offering insights into choosing the right option for specific backpacking needs. Small, narrow-angled D-shapes can exert too much friction on the rope and make belaying catchy and unpredictable. We break down key features, designs, and what to consider before buying. Look for a UIAA/CE certified HMS (Pear-shaped) screw-gate or auto-locking carabiner from a trusted brand like Petzl or Black Diamond. May 9, 2020 · Choosing the Right Carabiner Carabiner Shape: D-Shape: Ideal for general use, providing excellent strength-to-weight ratio. 13 of the world's top devices, compared, and tested! Apr 28, 2025 · For either device, clip a locking carabiner through the rope and device, then through the belay loop on your harness. If you’re belaying, you need a pear shaped, locking carabiner, but if you’re making your own quickdraws, “locking” is the last word you want to hear. Here's 10 Best Rock Climbing Carabiners to pick from to suit your everyday need. Screwgate Locking… Jul 24, 2025 · Hands are perhaps a climber’s most important tool, and climbing gloves protect them whether you’re belaying, rappelling, or crack climbing. Its most common use is belaying, rappelling, and abseiling without a belaying device. Since these carabiners are specialized, they work work best when belaying directly off your harnesses’ belay loop. We recommend it as the Best Carabiner For Grigri use. So how do you know what to use and when? Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Belaying is a critical skill that every climber has to learn early on. Oval: Suitable for pulley systems and equalizing loads. Dec 15, 2021 · When belaying from above, it’s best to hang this carabiner off your anchor’s master point; this will be more comfortable and allow you better control than if you clipped it to your harness belay loop. This carabiner is specifically designed for use with a Grigri and has a couple of cool features that make belaying safer and easier. Pear-Shape (HMS): Best for belaying and rope handling, offering versatility. Essentially, the force of the climber’s weight is exerted against the gate of the carabiner, which is the weakest part. Mar 28, 2025 · This hitch works for belaying and rappelling: pull back on one side, and the Munter hitch cinches onto itself, creating enough friction to hold a fall or control a rappel. Anti-cross-loading, this locking carabiner is convenient to use and gives you no hassles. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Oct 1, 2018 · Locking carabiners for climbing. If possible, practice belaying with friends belay devices to get a feel of what works best for you. Why a Specialized Belay Carabiner is Non-Negotiable Sep 15, 2020 · A dedicated belay biner can make a world of difference. New one has no i-beam profile at the top of the carabiner so that it is less likely to create sharp edges when the rope wears out the material. . Aug 15, 2019 · The DMM Rhino is our favorite carabiner to belay with, especially when belaying with an active assisted braking device such as a Petzl GriGri or Trango Mar 12, 2025 · The Petzl NEOX solves the critical issue with most assisted braking belay devices — unwanted rope locking when feeding slack. Sep 20, 2018 · Many books refer to an “HMS” carabiner. Jul 24, 2025 · When you’re climbing with ropes, whether sport, trad, or toprope, you need carabiners for so many different reasons. Many of these devices (like BD Pilot, Mammut Smart, Edelrid Jul series) lock quicker and better with a carabiner that has a more rounded top that adds more resistance (versus a carabiner with a very thin top area). Locking Mechanisms: Screw-Lock: Reliable and easy to use, but requires manual Learn how to choose carabiners for rock climbing, and the benefits of locking, nonlocking, wiregate, bent-gate and straight-gate carabiners. Cannot cross load it on its weak axis even if you try hard. Not only that, but it also has two separate chambers and openings, joined in the middle, making it one of the most unique, and bizarre, locking carabiner designs that we have tested. Reviews, ratings, and price comparisons covering 9 locking carabiners. This is an important knot for climbers to know. May 7, 2025 · We put 15 locking carabiners from Petzl, CAMP, Black Diamond, DMM and others to the test to find you the absolute best. If the carabiner opens or breaks, the user will certainly fall. The other part coming out of the device is called the brake strand. This guide will solve all your queries. I like to belay top rope with a GriGri - what is the best carabiner design for this setup? Is a Petzl Attaché screw-lock ok? I also have a Camp Orbit 2 auto lock. Locking carabiners for rock climbing are used in anchor systems, rappelling, belaying, personal safety anchors, and other instances where security is paramount. The larger gate facilitates smooth rope handling, which is crucial during belaying. Includes the pros and cons of tubular, assisted braking and Figure 8 devices. Pear-Shaped Carabiners (HMS) Pear-shaped carabiners, also known as HMS carabiners, are ideal for belaying and rappelling due to their wide gate opening. In fact, Petzl suggests that you don’t use an HMS carabiner. Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing the best belay carabiner is all about the right shape and size to match your device. Lock the carabiner. Jun 6, 2017 · It’s no wonder pros say, “XTEK’s the best” for every climbing, repelling, anchoring, rigging and belaying adventure. Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Get expert tips, guides, and tools to stay prepared for every mission and challenge. May 4, 2021 · Because the rope never touches your carabiner when you use a Grigri (or any similar assisted braking device), you can pretty much use any kind of carabiner you like. It works best in large pear shaped carabiners and should only be used with a locking carabiner. The mechanical brake assist devices, like the Petzl GriGri or Mar 1, 2023 · One of the more popular belaying devices that many climbers use nowadays is the Grigri. This knot has other names as well, like the Italian Hitch, Mezzo Barcaiolo, Crossing Hitch, HMS, Half Clove Hitch, or the Tag Knot. From budget to premium, we tested strength ratings, auto-lock vs screw-lock, and real-world performance. , the Petzl attaché has a pear Jul 6, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The best rappel devices are compatible with two strands of rope. When I first Independent carabiner/quickdraw reviews by real outdoors people. Set this knot up With so many carabiners on the market, it's easy to become overwhelmed when finding How to Choose a Rappelling Carabiner. While a single-strand-compatible Grigri is great for belaying, ATCs are preferred for rappelling. Oct 1, 2020 · To attach your belay device to your harness, you need a locking carabiner, and some are better for the job of belaying than others. 5mm ropes, and Mammut recommends using their Smart HMS carabiner with this device (it has a safety Dec 16, 2022 · One non-negotiable for multi-pitch belaying is that the device needs to be able to belay in “guide mode. Jun 10, 2019 · DMM makes some of the highest-quality and best climbing hardware—period. But with so many options available on the market, it can be overwhelming to choose the right one. Also, incredibly versatile, you’ll find it wide enough for belaying as well as anchor usage. The purpose behind this design is to prevent the locker, or belay device, from rotating when belaying, and Sep 8, 2021 · Various aspects of climbing require carabiners that have different functions and designs. The oval shape and the curves of this carabiner give balance to enable load shifting and maintain a high holding capacity for gears that making this carabiner the best to use for camping, TRK exercising, anchoring, rigging, climbing, belaying and rappelling. They come in different sizes and weights, and have a variety of locking mechanisms, along with a few other details you should watch out for when choosing your carabiner. Team grigri here. A slightly larger, modernized, auto lock version of our best-selling Element carabiner that features a smooth gate-to-body transition on the bottom of the carabiner eliminates the belay loop hangups common to other auto lock carabiners. Quick Guide: How to Tie a Munter Hitch Knot To tie a Munter Hitch Knot, make two loops in the middle of a What is the Best ATC Belaying Device in 2024? Here's a list of the Top 9 ATC devices for belaying based on our experiences and expertise. co/d/3bFkkAA These are cool, but im guessing he wants whatever 70$ one it is because he thinks that ones cool. The pear shape accommodates a Munter hitch, while a reliable locking mechanism is essential for belaying and anchoring. Discover what are carabiners made of with Crate Club—your ultimate source for premium tactical, survival, and self-defense gear. Reviews, ratings, and price comparisons covering 10+ locking carabiners, non-locking carabiners, quickdraws, and other carabiners and quickdraws. Jan 8, 2019 · The Petzl Frieno is an auto-locking carabiner designed for use while belaying. Jun 10, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. This problem is only mentioned in this video and The best carabiner for belaying ultimately depends on personal preference and specific climbing needs. Here at The Adventure Junkies, we will help you find the best belay carabiners that you can rely on while you’re focused on belaying. This guide highlights five carabiners well-suited for use with Grigri systems, offering a range of designs from lightweight D-shapes to locking screwgates and traditional bent-gate models. But to be able to maximize the usage of the Grigri, it must be paired with the right carabiner for the safety and protection of the climbers. In this post we are going to take a close look at the notable differences in styles, shapes, and mechanisms along with making suggestions as to where in the climbing system certain models are best suited for both convenience and greater security. That means that there are no moving parts inside the Smart that cam or pinch the rope to slow it down. Whether you're a seasoned climber or just starting out, having a reliable and sturdy carabiner is crucial for safety and peace of mind. Best Prices for Best Carabiner For Belaying Across the US Online Stores Scanned Every Day! Easy to Use | Free | Trustworthy Recommendations | Find your deal now! Jun 23, 2020 · The carabiner is always aligned on its best direction while belaying and rappelling, on single rope or double ropes. When belaying with the Munter Hitch be sure that the strand of rope carrying the load is next to the spine of the carabiner. From belaying to rappelling, clipping bolts to racking trad gear, every climber’s kit includes a variety of carabiners, and different ones are better for different applications. Best Locking Carabiners for Belaying & Rappelling DMM Belay Master 2 | Ultimate anti-cross-loading security with its integrated plastic clip Jul 26, 2025 · Carabiner Type: A pear-shaped or “HMS” belay carabiner with round metal works best. The capture feature keeps the carabiner in the correct orientation, but doesn’t work when belaying with an assisted braking device through the ‘big end’. This can Jun 18, 2024 · Choosing the Right Carabiner To select the best carabiner for your needs, consider your specific climbing style and preferences. Here at The Adventure Junkies, we will help you determine the best carabiner for your needs The Best Locking Carabiners Looking for the best locking carabiner? We researched over 40 of the best and most popular locking carabiners available on the market today and purchased the top 11 to include in this in-depth review. Read our four top picks for the best belay carabiner and treat your partner to a deluxe belay! May 14, 2024 · Ensuring safety while belaying is paramount in rock climbing, and selecting the best carabiner for the job is crucial. Twist-it-smart Screw Lock – Single Hand Locking Carabiner: Smooth and easy does it. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Aug 20, 2023 · A Munter Hitch Knot creates friction between a rope and a carabiner. May 20, 2020 · The best carabiner for the Grigri can prevent dangerous situations when belaying and rappelling. Locking carabiners prevent accidental gate openings during critical applications like belaying, anchoring, and rappelling. Or, you're just starting outdoors and you need one for your belay device or for your personal attachment sling to clip into anchors. Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. These recommendations are based on our actual usage experience with the carabiners We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. This guide breaks down the essential features to help you select the best carabiner for belaying with confidence. Belaying in guide mode positions the device vertically and allows the belayer to belay off the anchor, not their harness. This happens when the carabiner rotates around between the belay loop on your harness and the belay device so that the force is on the minor axis instead of the major axis. jhwezyb azvh ebn fquohn dgw twalbnl uwb ojwomt oyubds znsv gxhzsf vsento qhmmf pno thxaq